Issey Miyake

With the departure of creative director, Dai Fujiwara, I thought I would dedicate this post to his womens wear creations for the innovative brand over the past few years. True to fashion, he blew us away with his final collection this a/w 11 fashion week. Opening the show with oversized wearable paper origami outfits set the scene for strong shapes and silhouettes with a drop of the Issey Miyake genius! These designs where then seen toned down in fabric versions constructed out of miss-match prints. The contrast of strong shapes against loosely flowing fabrics created an interesting mix of silhouettes and presented a wide range of fabrics. However, above all, I simply have to mention the amazing 'zig zag' trousers! Perfect on and off the run way they present an exciting new direction for trousers! Here are a few snaps from the show....

Finally, here are some inspirational pictures of Dai's work over the past few seasons!!

                                                                        (Spring / Summer 2011)

                                                                        (Autumn / Winter 2010)

                                                                         (Spring / Summer 2010)

                                                                (Both Autumn / Winter 2009)

                                                          Farewell Mr. Dai Fujiwara!!!!
Images style.com

Paris' Game Of Two Halves

Paris fashion week has come to town and its seems that its not just the clothes that everyone's talking about. With the outrageous behaviour of a fashion genius, Dior dropped their creative director of 15 years, Mr John Galliano. Meanwhile, Dai Fujiwara presented his last collection for Issey Miyake after delivering 5 years worth of outstanding collections. But in the world of showbiz, the show must go on....

As ever, Paris Fashion Week has not disappointed. With a prominent emphasis on the feminine/masculine contrasts, designers brought us hourglass mannequins battling against androgynous draping and boxy jackets. Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo contrasts rouched multicoloured dresses constructed of vintage silk scarves against masculine half blazer-half womens fitted jackets. The collection brings a kind of confusion through the bold asymmetric silhouettes and designs.

This half man-half woman trend was continued over at Junya Wantanabe. He used sculpted leather to re-invent the leather jacket creating strong hour glass silhouettes softened with bell bottomed sleeves. The battle commenced when they where then challenged by boxy two pieces and over sized draping. The predominantly black collection was broken up with the introducion of brown splashes. Biker chic has been given a make over and most definitely slots in perfectly with the grunge trend hitting our wardrobes this coming fall.

On the Uber-Creative side of things Viktor and Rolf filled their catwalk with red-faced models dressed in Middle Aged inspired designs. The felted wool and leather collection mixed sophisticated tailoring with quirky detailing and strong silhouettes. The range of coats are definitely going to be on every girls fashion wish list who are bold enough to wear such a statement piece. The strong detailing courageously takes a new turn for outerwear this fall taking carefully crafted tailoring to a higher level. The Dutch duo proved to us that curves are definitely in this season with yet more emphasis on the hour glass figure nipping in at the waist exaggerated by the pin-wheel-esq detailing placed on the shoulders and full skirts. The collection took a futuristic turn with the designs re-invented in a not overly shiny shade of silver in which the detailing became a little more extravagantly 3D creating a Middle Aged knight in fashion armour. The collection as ever was true to the brands lust for creativity and innovation.

images courtesy of style.com

House of Holland A/W 11

Well it seems like Henry Holland has done it again and attacked LFW by it's pin heeled stilettos. His latest collection of 'Granny Chic' took the catwalk by storm mixing Harris tweed with chunky knits the miss-matched-ness of the fabrics, colours and prints stay true to the House of Holland bold style. It is very welcoming to see some colour on the cards for the winter months escaping the boring tradition of dressing as dark as the skies. Quirky prints and traditional fabrics capture the OAP essence meanwhile the daring colour combinations and contemporary designs will draw in the cool crowd and with front rowers such as Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof on his side he is sure to stand strong in the 'whos wearing who' this coming fall. Though the printed tee's were down to only a couple of styles this collection is definitely aimed at a higher market level. With just the Tee's and stripy socks looking likely to be the only 'affordable' pieces from the collection it is refreshing to see the House have the opportunity to explore beyond the basics and spilling into a higher market level.

Not only has he delivered a rather intriguing collection the House has also presented a tongue in cheek take on Telly Shopping short video. We see Henry, Pixie and Dree Hemmingway modeling the collection in a rather surreal setting jam packed with cheesy grins and cartoon pop up speech bubbles. This fun and entertaining video presents the collection in its full glory showing us the House of Holland audience definitely doesn't take life too seriously. Instead an essence of fun and playfulness emphasises the collections boldness injecting the garments with personality and character to brighten up the coming winter months.

Check out the video at: http://testmag.co.uk/house-of-holland-aw-2011/